The Heart of Europe

Isn’t it phenomenal how the places we’re visiting for the first time, ogling at in wonder, are someone else’s home? The arched bridges we traverse, camera in hand, the grand buildings we meander past, eyes wide, are commonplace to thousands. Do they still see the beauty of their great cities every morning, or have they become so accustomed to such beauty that it seems commonplace to them?

This past weekend we visited Prague and Dresden and it was a memorable experience to say the least. Several of us (myself included) were struck ill during our field trip, which made pushing through 4 days of adventures a bit tenuous. Nonetheless, it was a phenomenal experience, which is a testimony to the beauty of these cities because my health was in desolate condition.

Thursday we took a basic tour of the city, led by our professors Jan and Martin. For many people who had flow into Prague early and spent a few days in the city already, it was a bit of a repeat, but for me it was an all new experience. One of the highlights of the day was when I found my name plastered on the John Lennon wall, so of course I had to snap a pic. As a chronic nerd, it was also a blast seeing the Astronomical Clock featured in the Harry Potter movies. It’s still an adjustment how relaxed European culture is compared to American- Jan and Martin took us out for a drink after dark and we bonded over beer and Irish music!

We’d had a glance at the Prague Castle on Thursday, but on Friday we actually had the opportunity to tour it, and it was glorious. The architecture was so stunning it almost made us forgot how exhausting the walk up was! One of the best parts on being in Prague when we were though, was the Easter Market. The atmosphere was simply exuberant. Sunday morning after touring the Jewish Quarter, I celebrated Easter dinner with a sausage from the market, and it was divine. Having free time to wander was great for improving my navigational skills because, if we’re being honest, they’re quite horrendous for someone who wants to be a lifelong traveler. Granted, I was never entirely on my own, but that didn’t stop me from regular befuddlement at where we were going to or coming from. My one regret from the weekend was not making it to mass at one of the Czech churches on Easter Sunday (even though I’m not actually Catholic…), but I was so sick I could barely see straight, so I’ll let bygones be bygones.

On a brighter note, a big highlight of the weekend was our daytrip to Dresden on Saturday, when we got a phenomenal view of the city from one of their churches, as well as some top-notch Swiss cuisine. Every time I visit a new place, my immediate thought is that it is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen, and I continue being astounded by each and every new destination. I wonder sometimes if one of these strange new cities we’re visiting is going to be my future home in ten or twenty years, and I truly hope that will be the case because they are truly breathtaking.

Lost in Translation

Surely by this point you are all familiar with Tolkien’s eloquent reminder that not all who wander are lost. But is being lost really that horrific a notion? If being found, if being settled, means that I have to stop wandering, I will gladly be lost for the rest of my life. I had the unique opportunity to travel solo around Ireland for a few days before I flew into the Czech Republic, and despite being regularly dazed and confused, it was a phenomenal experience. I met some amazing travelers in my hostel who volunteered to let me crash on their couches as I flit about Europe, and I toured some of the most fantastic natural wonders in Europe, the Giant’s Causeway and the Cliffs of Moher, as well as the capital city of Dublin. From the moment I flew in and got on the wrong bus at five in the morning, everyone I encountered was more than helpful, and it was truly a great introduction to Europe as a nation.

However, as the purpose of this trip is study abroad in the Czech Republic, I should probably turn my attention to there. As a chronic people-watcher and psychoanalyzer, it’s been a fascinating experience for me to observe the interactions of the local Czech people with each other and with our group of still somewhat bumbling Americans since the day we arrived in Olomouc. One of our lecturers was kind enough to remind us that the Czech Republic is a rather “frowny” country, which is difficult for me to adjust to because I am a rather perky individual. On more occasions than I can count, I’ve flashed my biggest, cheesiest, most authentic American smile at a complete stranger in Olomouc, and they reacted as if I’d just pulled a chainsaw out of my backpack. Coming from one of the friendliest states in America, it’s a vast recalibration to not strike up a conversation with every person I meet (especially since often I’m incapable because of that irritating and ever-present language barrier).

I feel as though everyone should be thrust in a situation in which they are linguistically inadequate though, because it forces you to reexamine the importance of nonverbal cues. It’s so easy to underappreciate the simplicity of daily interactions with people around you when it comes to things like ordering a meal, asking for directions to a local pub, or seeking assistance in a department store, until suddenly you can’t communicate. The manners in which the local Czech people react to such inquiries is vast, from genuine laughter at my basic incompetence to outright disdain. There was an instance in which a group of us stopped by a quaint little doughnut shop for breakfast and the woman behind the counter gave us the entire rundown of our options in Czech before realizing from the looks of blind confusion on our faces that we were utterly clueless as to what was going on, at which point she broke out in laughter, telling us in English to just point and hope for the best. She was a true delight, as were the chocolate slathered doughnuts.

Unfortunately, not all of my interactions have passed that smoothly. It’s disorienting for me to write about less than cheery transactions because it’s in my nature to be blindly optimistic about the world around me. Nonetheless, I believe that honest evaluation of interpersonal transgressions is key in effectively understanding and adapting to a new culture, so I’ll do my best to keep it real.  Most of the waiters in the restaurants and pubs I’ve encountered have been generally underwhelmed with our presence as Americans and openly disapproving of our tendency to point and force out an inaudible pronunciation of the dish we’re hoping for. Taxis have been an adventure as well, considering the fact that every one I’ve called so far has been in Czech.

Overall though, I’ve had a generally positive impression of the people in this beautiful city. Our professors, Jan and Martin, are a true delight, and the other lecturers have been quite insightful as well. The students here are phenomenally helpful in showing us around the city and campus, introducing us to the quaintest cafes and most lively night clubs, and just helping us to adapt to our new home. Of all the places to be lost, Olomouc is a prime destination.